Accomack County

Abandoned Dock

Some paths to the starting line are more pleasant than others.

Take my Tangier Island run. As a side trip to our Ocean City, Md., vacation, Col and I drove a little more than an hour to Crisfield and then soaked in the sun during a 90-minute boat ride to the Chesapeake Bay island with a population of about 500. It is part of Virginia’s Accomack County.

The mini-cruise on a gorgeous day was a leisurely start to the afternoon. I changed into my running gear on the boat, strolled to the island’s main road and headed south.

On Tangier, I ended up running through the more touristy part a couple of times to reach three miles. I should’ve taken a turn that would’ve brought me through a more residential area, but the road was so narrow I thought it was someone’s driveway. I passed on going down a road that leads to what is supposed to be a beautiful beach where I might have found arrowheads and other Native American artifacts because the only police officer on the island had innocently parked his car at the intersection.

There are about a dozen cars in the metropolis, with golf carts being the preferred method of transportation. There is no jail. There are limited medical facilities. Two doctors visit the island twice a week.

I saw a Maryland state police helicopter make a landing in response to a medical emergency that proved to be a false alarm. As I trotted by the airport, an 8-year-old local girl asked me, “Who’s sick?” “I don’t know,” I said. “Whatcha’ doing?” she asked. I too quickly answered, “Running and walking.” Right after, I wondered how she would have responded if I said, “I’m running across Virginia.”

Tangier is actually made up of a series of small islands divided by marshes and streams. The islands are connected by wooden bridges. There are no traffic lights, one school for K-12 with fewer than 10 students in each grade. Tourism and crabbing are its main industries. It is often referred to as the soft-shell crab capital of the world.

Before the Europeans arrived, it had been a summer retreat for Pocomoke Native Americans. It was first settled in 1686. During the War of 1812, the British used it as a staging area for battles in Baltimore, Northern Virginia and Washington, D.C. As many as 1,200 soldiers occupied the island.

Accomack County, first explored by an English expedition in 1603, is the largest county in the state when you include both the land (455 square miles) and water (855 square miles) area. It has a population of 32,000 and, along with Northampton County, makes up Virginia’s Eastern Shore, part of the Delmarva Peninsula.

25 runs down, 109 to go.


View Tangier in a larger map

Aboard the Steven Thomas
Front View
New Friend
Smile
View of Crisfield
Old Island
Crab Boat
Oil Tanker
Dock View
Bikes, Carts
Island View 1
Seafood
Post Office
Hanging Out At the Ice Cream shop
Museum
Narrow Streets
Gift Shop
First Mobile Home on the Island
Tombstone
Crab in marsh I
Crab In Marsh II
Marsh I
Marsh II
Marsh III
Another Mobile Home
Helicopter Lands
Reedville Ship
Boat Graveyard
Abandoned Boat
Crab pots
Crab Pots on Dock
Boat & Dock
Abandoned Dock
Sandwich Shop
Soft Shell Crab Sandwich
Port Isobel I
Port Isobel II
Port Isobel III
Me on boat

Aboard the Steven Thomas

The ship went from Crisfield to Tangier Island.
(photo by Col)

Front View

The 12-mile cruise took about 90-minutes.

New Friend

Col met Shiloh aboard the boat.

Smile

Shiloh smiles for the camera.
(photo by Col)

View of Crisfield

The Harbourlight Condominiums, built in 2008, have been a tough sell. Crisfield hasn't become the tourist attraction that some envisioned it would become.

Old Island

The stack is from a menhaden fertilizer plant that burned down in 1932. Menhaden is an oily fish. The island is now part of Janes Island State Park in Maryland's Somerset County.

Crab Boat

Crabbing and tourism are the main industries in Tangier Island.

Oil Tanker

An oil tanker gets pulled by a tug boat.

Dock View

Odd Tangier phrase #1: “to pull a Gaskins” – In 1950s the husband of Eunice Crockett Gaskins left to go buy cigarettes and never came back. Eunice was apparently a difficult woman.

Bikes, Carts

Tourists can rent bikes or golf carts to explore the island.
(photo by Col)

Island View 1

There are four restaurants on the island: Hilda Crockett’s Chesapeake House, Fishermans Corner, Waterfront Restaurant, Lorraine’s.
(photo by Col)

Seafood

(photo by Col)

Post Office

A mail boat brings in mail daily.
(photo by Col)

Hanging Out At the Ice Cream shop

(photo by Col)

Museum

The island was discovered 1608 and was originally known as Russels Isles. It was settled in 1686 by John Crockett. The last name of Crockett is still prevalent on the island. (photo by Col)

Narrow Streets

The one grocery store on the island gets daily deliveries.

Gift Shop

There are three gift shops on the island.

First Mobile Home on the Island

It was brought over in 1959. Mobile homes remain popular. After a mobile home comes over on a barge, it takes a community effort to get it into place.

Tombstone

Some of the front yards have tombstones on them. In addition to wanting to keep their loved ones close and wanting to make use of the limited land area, residents do this to reduce the risk of caskets floating to the surface because houses are built on higher ground.

Crab in marsh I

Odd phrase #2: “he took a bubble” – he hardly bathed at all.

Crab In Marsh II

Odd Phrase #3: “Hide the butcher knife. He’s gonna cut his throat” – means he’s so vain.

Marsh I

The island is losing 9 acres a year.

Marsh II

The island is just four feet above sea level.

Marsh III

The expansive marshes provide a habitat for several heron species.

Another Mobile Home

Helicopter Lands

The airport is 2,600 feet long.

Reedville Ship

Ships come to the island from Reedville, Va., Crisfield, Md. and Onancock, Va.

Boat Graveyard

President Herbert Hoover took a 3-day fishing trip to Tangier in 1932.

Abandoned Boat

Electricity wasn't introduced on the island until 1948. It now comes in by underwater cable, with a series of backup generators. Phone service is by microwave. Cell phone service is extremely limited. It does have high speed Internet.

Crab pots

Drinking water comes from seven wells that are 1,000 feet deep.

Crab Pots on Dock

Boat & Dock

Abandoned Dock

Sandwich Shop

(photo by Col)

Soft Shell Crab Sandwich

(photo by Col)

Port Isobel I

The 250-acre island just east of Tangier Island is owned by the Chesapeake Bay Foundation.

Port Isobel II

Families lived in the area until rising sea levels in the 1920s forced them to abandon their homes. It was donated to the foundation in the late 1980s. It is used as an education center.

Port Isobel III

Students get an opportunity to explore the Chesapeake Bay watershed and learn about efforts to save the Bay.

Me on boat

(photo by Col)

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